The Aljafería: a palace of joy from Islamic Spain
On the edge of Zaragoza, in northeastern Spain, a fortress of honey-colored stone hides an astonishing interior of horseshoe arches, carved plaster and interlacing ornament. The Aljafería is the finest surviving palace of the taifa period—the age of small Muslim kingdoms that fragmented al-Andalus in the 11th century—and the most important work of Islamic architecture in Spain outside Andalusia. Few buildings carry so many chapters of Spanish history in a single shell: Muslim pleasure palace, Christian royal residence, seat of the Inquisition, military barracks, and today the home of a modern parliament.
Built for a taifa king
The palace was raised in the second half of the 11th century under the Banu Hud dynasty that ruled the Taifa of Zaragoza, above all during the reign of Al-Muqtadir, as a suburban residence for leisure—a “palace of joy.” Around a central courtyard with pools and gardens, its architects created delicate arcades and a small mosque whose mihrab survives. Its most famous room, the richly decorated hall later known in Spanish as a golden salon, shows the taste of a sophisticated court. One tower, the rectangular Torre del Trovador (Troubadour Tower), is older than the palace itself.
From kings to Inquisition
After Zaragoza fell to the Christians in 1118, the Aljafería became a residence of the Kings of Aragon. In the late 15th century the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, added a grand palace with a splendid coffered throne room above the older Islamic core. Later the building served the Spanish Inquisition and, from the 18th century, as a military barracks, suffering considerable damage. A long 20th-century restoration rescued and rebuilt much of what visitors see today.
Visiting the Aljafería
Since 1987 the Aljafería has been the seat of the Cortes de Aragón, the regional parliament, and its Islamic and medieval rooms are open to the public when parliamentary business allows. Its Mudéjar elements form part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing recognizing the Mudéjar architecture of Aragon. Because it is a working legislature, opening hours and guided-tour times vary, so visitors should check the schedule and book ahead, especially in high season. Location: Zaragoza, Aragón, SpainBuilt: 11th century, Taifa of Zaragoza (Banu Hud)Highlights: Islamic courtyard and mosque oratory, golden hall, Troubadour Tower, Catholic Monarchs’ throne roomLater uses: Aragonese royal palace, Inquisition seat, barracksToday: seat of the Cortes de Aragón (regional parliament)Visiting: open to visitors around parliamentary business; check hours and book ahead
