Across the moat, Matsumoto Castle rises in black and white against the mountains of Nagano. Its dark timber walls and layered roofs make a memorable first impression, but the view becomes more interesting when you enter the grounds. What looks like a single tower is a group of connected structures built for different purposes, and the castle that stands today owes its survival to generations of local residents as well as to the people who built it.
This is one of Japan’s surviving wooden castle keeps, not a modern concrete replica. The city calls it the oldest surviving example with five stories visible outside and six floors within. Its National Treasure designation covers five connected buildings: the main keep, the smaller northwestern keep, the connecting passage, an attached turret and the moon-viewing turret. A walk around the moat is a good way to appreciate how their roofs and walls fit together before stepping inside.